1970 70 Mustang Deluxe Mach 1 Door Panels

1970 70 Mustang Deluxe Mach 1 Door Panels

Ford licensed and MCA approved, our 1970 Mustang deluxe and Mach 1 door panels are proudly made in the USA in our factory in Virginia. With 1000's of pairs sold worldwide, you can rest assured that you are getting the best concourse reproduction 70 Mustang deluxe and Mach 1 interior door panels available. Our door panels are softer to the touch than our competitors and feature a more true to original grain vinyl. Each carpet is hand-cut and installed to gaurantee that they look great when they arrive to you. The holes pictured below come pre-cut and drilled to make installation easier. These door panels also feature a strong metal cap at the top, and a durable plastic backing that is less prone to warp than standard fiber-board. Available in black, white, and ginger these 70 Mustang deluxe door panels are in stock and ship same or next day. They will come in a custom made box via Fed Ex, so they will arrive fast, and in great condition.

Also, there are only five fuses in the fuse box. That's odd. Is there any way that you could email e a couple of pictures of this stuff? Ford did not put that wire in the car. In the picture, it looks like the black/yellow wire ends and that black wire picks up where the black/yellow terminates at that funky looking crimp connector. What that black/yellow wire is supposed to do is come through the firewall and split into three wires. One of them is black/yellow, which foes to the emergency flasher and courtesy light circuits at the fuse box. One is yellow, and goes to the ignition switch, and the other is black/orange, and goes to the headlight switch. If the black/yellow wire does indeed end where that black wire starts, I would check and see which, if any, of those three places, ignition switch, headlight switch and courtesy light circuit where getting power. If that black wire is just crimped in and piggy-backing the black/yellow wire, that was something that somebody did to get constant power to some component, like maybe a radio, that the car might or might not still have.

I would also hook up the battery and see if that wire is hot all of the time. Let me know what you find out about what works and what doesn't, along with whether or not that wire is hot all of the time. Upon sorting all the wires behind the instrument cluster, that black wire is clearly not piggy-backing or crimped in to any other wires. So I hook up the battery to see if that wire is hot all the time like you suggested. First, I used the light tester and showed very dim lights during the test so I switched to the voltage tester and definitely showed very limited voltage of 3.4 when the key is on ACC and ON position. It seems to me like it could be a resistor wire for something and only allowing certain amount of power to go through. There is only one resistor wire that is supposed to be in your car, and that's the one that goes from the ignition switch to the coil.

If the other end of that wire is coming out of the voltage regulator, that would explain why it's showing a little power. Since that's not the black/green wire that goes to the charge indicator light, I don't really know what to say about that. Does everything work like it's supposed to without having that wire hooked up to anything? Thank you for the information you provide on your site. I have a 65 that I cannot get the alternator to charge on. When I purchased the car the wiring harness was in the trunk and had been cut in multiple places. I didn't want to spend the money on a new harness so I repaired it and installed it. The engine had been in a later mustang so the alternator on it was not the correct one for a 1965. I replaced it with the correct one but it still does not charge. I checked and I have it wired as you show on your site. When the key is on I have 12V to the stator connector.

I tried jumping 12V to the field post once and the alternator started putting out 17 volts and I could hear it pull the engine down. But I was getting 17V to the battery as well. With the jumper removed the voltage from the alternator slowly decreased. This made me think that my voltage regulator might be bad so I replaced it. This made no difference. Another note on my charging issues. My indicator light wires are yellow/black and black/green. I have the Scott Drake wiring diagrams that I believe are just a copy of the original ford diagrams. The page that shows the instrument panel information shows the charge indicator light wires as yellow/black and black/green. The page labeled ignition, starting and charging shows the wires as green/red and black/green and it shows the black green one splicing into the starter right before the resistor wire. This just leaves me even more confused.