Older Tesla Model S units (particularly those from 2012–2020) are known for "electrical gremlins" that can range from minor annoyances to leaving the car immobile. Here are 5 labels for these common electrical issues:
MCU1 eMMC Memory Failure,
Cause: The original Media Control Unit (MCU1) used a 8GB eMMC memory chip that had a finite number of "write" cycles. Once the memory was full of logs and cached data, the chip would wear out and fail.
Solution: A major Tesla recall (2021–2026) provides a free upgrade to a 64GB memory chip. Many owners opt for the paid "MCU2" upgrade ($1,500 approx.) to get a faster processor and modern features like Netflix and YouTube.
12V Battery "Deep Sleep" Failure,
Cause: Unlike the main high-voltage battery, the 12V lead-acid battery powers the computers and locks.
1 If it fails, the car cannot engage the high-voltage contactors to start or even open the doors.Solution: Tesla mobile service replaces the 12V battery (often as a proactive measure when the car displays a "Schedule Service" alert). Newer 2022+ Model S units use a 16V Lithium-Ion accessory battery that lasts significantly longer.
Vampire/Phantom Battery Drain,
Cause: Older Model S computers often fail to enter "Sleep" mode due to third-party apps continuously polling the car for data, or Sentry Mode keeping the internal processors active.
Solution: Disabling "Always Connected" in older firmware or updating to 2025.20+ software, which optimizes background telemetry. Professional "Power Cycling" (rebooting the car's systems) can also clear stuck processes.
Ground Ribbon Corrosion,
Cause: Braided copper ground straps located in the front wheel wells or under the frunk can corrode from road salt, leading to erratic electrical behavior, flickering lights, or "Drive Unit Disabled" errors.
Solution: Cleaning the contact points and replacing the corroded copper ribbons with tinned or insulated grounding cables to prevent future oxidation.
Center Display "Yellow Bordering",
Cause: The adhesive between the LCD and the glass on early 17-inch screens leaks or reacts to heat, creating a thick yellow or "burnt" border around the edge of the display.
Solution: Tesla uses a specialized UV-light tool to "cure" the adhesive and remove the yellowing without replacing the whole screen. If the screen is leaking fluid ("dripping"), a full display replacement is required.
Labels List Only
MCU1 eMMC Memory Failure,
12V Battery "Deep Sleep" Failure,
Vampire/Phantom Battery Drain,
Ground Ribbon Corrosion,
Center Display "Yellow Bordering",
Would you like me to check if your Model S is eligible for the free eMMC memory recall upgrade?
