Streetside Classics - The Nation's Trusted Classic Car Consignment Dealer
Sorry sleeper fans, this 1971 Ford Mustang Mach 1 is definitely not about keeping a low profile. Instead, the vivid orange with black Mach 1 graphics make a statement that practically dares other cars to give it a go. And with a stout 351 cubic inch V8, this real-deal code 05 Mach 1 will more than hold its own on the streets and looks fantastic doing it. If you're going to own a 1971 Mustang Mach 1, you should probably own one that's going to get noticed. On this performance Mustang, bright colors just looks right. The handsome black interior is fairly stock and is how this car was ordered, a pleasing complement to the high-impact exterior and it's a nice combination of original equipment and new components. The original buckets have been reupholstered and look quite stock, and when they work this well there's really no need to replace or upgrade. And you will enjoy driving quite a bit thanks to the burly M-code 351 cubic inch V8 under the hood. Topped by an Edelbrock 4-barrel carburetor and wearing a chrome open-element air cleaner, it has a definitely high-performance look. Ford finned aluminum valve covers look right in the satin black engine bay and other than the aluminum radiator and aforementioned carburetor, the mechanicals are pretty stock. The exhaust system features Flowmaster mufflers for that distinctive Mustang sound, and while the undercarriage isn't detailed for show, it doesn't have any red flags, either. Cool 18-inch Boyd Coddington wheels show off 4-wheel disc brakes with cross-drilled rotors, and carry 225/45/18 front and 245/45/18 rear performance radials. If you don't mind the attention, this is a flat-out awesome car for the money. Like any Mustang, it's fun to drive, but that high-visibility paint job takes this one to another level.
You will want to use a wiring diagram for your specific car to set up the jumpers. Output mod: Run a jumper wire from the negative lead of LED 17 to pin 36 on the underside of the DB37 connector. On V2.2 boards, there is no hole on the board, so you must solder the jumper directly to the DB37 connector lead. Input mod: You install a 1k to 2k 1/4w resistor in place of D2. Jumper D1. Jumper TachSelect to OptoIn, XG1 to XG2, and TSEL to OptoOut. Output mod: Run a jumper wire from the top lead of D14 to the IGN jumper. Use a 330 ohm resistor for R4, installed in the 12 volt position. Configure TunerStudio for TFI Spark Output using LED17 (D14). Do not set any other spark outputs. Set Spark Output Inverted to Yes. Set Trigger Angle to 10 degrees. Set Dwell to Fixed Duty, and Spark Output Duty Cycle to 50% duty cycle.
Note: This is for the 鈥淧ush start鈥?modules, without computer controlled dwell. The computer controlled dwell settings are not fully tested. Remove the XG1 to XG2 jumper, D5, D8, and R10. Connect a jumper between XG1 and the right (non-banded) hole where D5 goes. Connect a jumper between the bottom hole in the R10 position and the right (banded) hole in the D9 position. Replace D8 with a 1.3k to 2k resistor. Output mod: Run a jumper wire from the negative lead of LED 17 to pin 36 on the underside of the DB37 connector. On V2.2 boards, there is no hole on the board, so you must solder the jumper directly to the DB37 connector lead. Remove C30 and the XG1 to XG2 jumper if fitted, as well as any jumper running from TachSelect. Replace R12 with a 1.3k resistor. Run a jumper from S12C to the top hole in the C30 position.
Jumper TachSelect to XG1. Jumper TSEL to OPTOOUT. Output mod: Run a jumper wire from the top lead of D14 to the IGN jumper. Use a 2.2k ohm resistor for R4, installed in the 5 volt position. Under Codebase and Output Functions, set EDIS mode using LED17 (D14) for spark output A. Do not set any other spark outputs. Set trigger angle to 0 degrees. Set Spark Output Inverted to Yes. Set Dwell Control to Fixed Duty and 50% duty cycle. Input mod: You install a 1k to 2k 1/4w resistor in place of D2. Jumper D1. Jumper TachSelect to OptoIn, XG1 to XG2, and TSEL to OptoOut. Output mod: Run a jumper wire from JS10 to IGBTIN and jumper IGBTOUT to IGN. Use a 330 ohm resistor for R4, installed in the 12 volt position. Then set the dwell setting to 8.0 milliseconds with no battery voltage compensation. This will get the spark output to closely imitate the square wave signal that the EEC-IV computer sends out. You must also set the initial position of the trigger (called the 鈥榯rigger offset鈥?, then check it using the Trigger Wizard in TunerStudio (Tools Menu).
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