Saturday, December 28, 2019

Average Guy's Car Restoration, Mods And Racing

Average Guy's Car Restoration, Mods And Racing





I know, I have a lot of work scheduled for the Mustang. This includes interior work and yes maybe doing it all at once would be a good idea. But I drive it a couple of times a week and the seat is getting worse. So I decided it needed to be fixed. The kit is from TMI and I think I purchased it from a Mustang parts dealer, but I don鈥檛 recall which one. Here鈥檚 a couple of videos on it. What I noticed is the black piping. I know that the car was re-uphostered before I purchased it, so I鈥檓 guessing that this was not original, at least they don鈥檛 make them in the reproduction world. Coming up is the removal of the seat. 351 Cleveland CJ head! They are in great shape. Just look at those ports! Going to make some hps that for sure. So I鈥檓 weaving my way through the spec for all of the mods for what some folks think it a toss away car. 1970 was still in the muscle era and the 鈥?0 coupe was the runt of the litter for Mustangs.





It had to fight for space with the Bosses and the Mach 1s and really it was lost in the mix. That鈥檚 why I love this car. If you鈥檝e followed my blog you know that it started life as the 250 straight 6 engine and now sports a .030 bored 302, but it needs more. For the first set of mods I did what most project manager do, plan it out right down to the documentation for the specs for every mod. For this set of mods I鈥檒l do the same. I鈥檒l share parts of the documentation here on this page of my blog and find a place for readers to be able to download the template. However for this entry this entry I wanted to cover some mod options. None of these are firm but all are being looked at. From my list one of the first things do is to add some heat protection and sound deadening. The amount of heat that comes from the current 302 is pretty intense and as I boost the power with new heads and an intake it鈥檚 going to run hotter.





I want to keep that heat outside. Of course here in AZ the car is 120 degree before you even start it. Of course budget is always an issue鈥es average guy - average (below average) budget. There are kits out here by Quiet Ride Solutions/AcoustiShield. 700. There are various sub kits are available and you can pick the area you want to cover. Now these are all pre-cut for your specific model but there is an alternative. You can by the brand name Dynamate for about 130 bucks for 9 18鈥漻 32鈥?pieces, that is about 35 sq. feet of mate. 700. You gonna have to some cutting, but that鈥檚 have the fun. Now the concern I have it how much to do? I鈥檓 not sure I need to do the trunk floor, but I probably will, but my real issue is the roof. My headliner is in perfect condition and taking it down risks having to replace it.





However, it鈥檚 hot here in Southern Arizona and stuffing the top will help keep the car cooler. What do you think? 416 hp at 6000 rpm, and 349 tq. 鈥檛 granny shift speed wise!!!) But he still ran a 12.61 at gateway. Wow, that鈥檚 pretty good. My 302 is bore .030. Hooker headers and 65O holley. 鈥檛 planning on changing out the cam. Now the rear end great. You can almost hear the multiple double clutches! Thanks Philip, But won鈥檛 that reduce compression? Ford Motorsports usually has some really great deals on 302 old school engines. I would check there first. Trick Flow Twisted Wedge heads, Great gains in HP and Torque. 150 shot of nitros.. I can get behind the higher compression..but I haven鈥檛 decided on NOS yet. 1969 and 1970 Boss 302 heards and intake will work great. Tim Sweet That was a thought I had as well. Roy Oberg Aluminum is the way to go, go with a smaller combustion chamber that will give you more compression and less chance of spark knock.

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