Mercedes-Benz Of Marin - San Rafael, CA

Mercedes-Benz Of Marin - San Rafael, CA

I'm a pleased MB owner since 2012. Just purchased my second, a GLE 350.Thanks to Issa, Ary and their team, they went above and beyond to accommodate my needs from beginning to end. When they realized I wasn't a fan of highway driving they said no worries, they would bring the car to me and we could do all the paperwork at my home.Customer Service, customer service and customer service.! Thank you MB of Marin. The car sells it's self but in the end the representatives of the product are who get my cu-do's. It is all about the service. Two days ago I flew up from S. California specifically to buy a Mercedes from the uber-professional sales team member, Jerry Malone. Why did I travel 500 miles to make a purchase that I could have easily made in La Jolla? In short, Jerry is hands down the most passionate, knowledgeable and straight forward sales representative I've ever worked with in buying a car. Not only does he really care about find the right vehicle for your wants/needs, but a vehicle that meets your budget.

Jerry is interested in the long term relationship, not the one-off sale. Last, but not least, I've never met a sales rep at any dealership over the past 30 years who know more about cars - and every aspect of each Mercedes model. He's a walking savant. Post-purchase Jerry spent two hours with me getting everything set-up with the car, and walking me through all the systems and screen options. You can't go wrong with MB Marin - a class act facility - or working with Jerry Malone! Don't know how we can ever thank the manager Herbert at Mercedes Benz of Marin! On Saturday we ventured out in the vintage convertible Porsche on our way from the Peninsula to Sonoma for a wine tasting event, when we got to San Rafael we starting hearing a loud sound. Unsure of the problem, yet knowing we should not continue on we called for a tow and began searching the internet in the 100 degree weather to find a rental car. Nothing is open on a Saturday afternoon! After exhausting all efforts we considered taking a cab back home- 60 miles away. Then we decided to contact MB of Marin. We just purchased a car there last month, Herbert the manager quickly responded with a loaner car and saved the day! Thank you for your excellent customer service and generosity! Irena is our salesperson and responsible for connecting us with the manager. You have two new lifetime customers! Christian Roettgers is a consummate professional, and provides what can often be a difficult process into something straightforward and customer-focused. He listens, provides guidance, but does not push.

If you are only installing brake pads, skip to the step beginning: Clean the caliper slide pins below. Remove brake rotors if turning or replacing them. On most cars, the rotor is separate from the hub. Simply slide the rotor off of the lug studs. You may need to remove a set screw and/or use a rubber mallet to loosen the rotor. You may need an impact driver (hammer it while twisting counter-clockwise) to remove a set screw. If the brake rotor and hub are one piece, remove the grease cup, cotter pin and castle nut from the axle to allow removal. Only if necessary, unbolt the pad bracket from the steering knuckle. Some auto parts stores have brake lathes or a small machine shop. Call before starting your job to verify hours; most machine shops are only open until noon on Saturday and are closed on Sunday. Rotor/hub assemblies can be resurfaced ("turned") if they are not badly worn or damaged, but consider replacing them if they are grooved.

The shop should refuse to turn them if they are thin or damaged. Even though the replacement parts may be expensive, especially if you're replacing the hub and its bearings instead of putting the old hub and bearings back on the car. However, not all new rotor/hub assemblies include the bearings (although they may have new races in place, so that you can just "drop in" the new grease-packed bearings). You may have to install races and seals yourself, as well as pack them with grease. So a set of bearings may be a necessary purchase as well. When applicable, this is also a good time to repack your front wheel bearings. Refer to your service manual or lubrication guide for this procedure. You'll need some new cotter pins and wheel bearing grease for this, as well as a pair of needle-nose pliers. Install the new or resurfaced ("turned") rotors in reverse order of how they came off. New rotors have a layer of oil on them to prevent rust while they're on the shelf. Clean this off with carb/fuel-injector cleaner; it works better than brake cleaner in this case.

Reattach the pad bracket. If you are not replacing calipers, skip to the step beginning: Clean the caliper slide pins below. Replacing calipers if necessary: Make sure the brake fluid reservoir is securely closed, especially if you opened it earlier to allow for fluid to expand. Remove the "banjo" bolt holding the brake hose to the caliper. This is a special hollow bolt that allows fluid to flow through it; don't damage it or lose it. Make a note of its position or orientation, you will need to install it on the new caliper in the same orientation to avoid bending and damaging the hose. Drain the fluid from the caliper into a safe container for proper disposal. Notice that the new caliper will come with two brass washers, plus rubber grommets for the slide pins, pad retaining clips (if applicable), possibly new slide pins, and maybe that hollow bolt mentioned above. Make sure that the calipers are installed with the bleeder fittings/screws in the upper or top position. Reattach the brake hose with a new brass or copper washer installed on both sides of the hose fitting, that the hollow "banjo" bolt goes through.